I woke up at four in the morning, lying in bed listening to the sound of my surroundings. At first, it was total silence – then birds chirping, gentle waves brushing the shore, and…glacier rumbling in the distance…
Was there another calving? I got up and rushed to the window…
I couldn’t tell. The water was as smooth as a mirror reflecting morning light.
Maybe it was my imagination. Perhaps this was all just a dream…I went back to bed, quickly dozed off.
Next time I woke up, it was almost eight. I had to get ready for my morning hike. As I was leaving the hut, I noticed an arctic fox trotting by carrying, what looked like a small hare, in her mouth.
After breakfast, Simon and I set out to the delta.
The trail goes along the craggy coastline with beautiful water view.
We looked down a small beach where the previous tsunami parked many ice shards. It was properly named Suicide Beach.
Simon brought with him a thin booklet of Greenlandic wild flowers, so we could identify them along the hike.
Once we reached the top of the ridge, the delta is at sight.
As we moved around a large rock, suddenly, a pair of eagles took off. They circled around calling apprehensively.
We decided not to disturb them any further. So we sat down, took a deep breath and closed our eyes.
It is AMAZING how much one notices when one stops moving – the sound of running rapids, Lapland Longspur and Snow Bunting singing interchangeably, eagles calling, glacier calving and – the start of fresh raindrops.
(Click to listen to the sound recording below)
Walt Whitman once said – “Happiness, not in another place but this place…not for another hour, but this hour.”
It was in this remote area of Greenland, where there is no cell phone, no television and no internet, and at this ripe moment, I found my happiness.