Paris, I Hate You!

Paris, I hate you!

This morning we woke up, the sun went into hiding. and it seemed that you were back to your usual grey.

We went to Sainte-Chapelle. Its towering stained glass windows were so beautiful, that one could almost imagine what it looks like when the sun shines through.

But, the clouds were thick and lights feeble.

We popped into Galeries Lafayette, not to shop

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But to check out its astonishing glass dome in art nouveau style.

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We even saw a panoramic view of the city from its rooftop terrace

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including the opera house that we visited on our first night back from Normandy.

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Sadly, the acclaimed Mont-Blanc and hot chocolate, that I so looked forward to, in Angelina, did not live up to its fame.

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It was overwhelmingly sweet and not enough chestnut flavor.

The day before we left Paris, we finally adjusted to the French lunch hour and had lovely galettes at the Breizh Café on Rue Vieille du Temple.

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In Brittany (Cancale to be specific), we once dined at the Michelin-Starred La Table Breizh Café helmed by a Japanese chef. We were delighted to find out that this is their sister restaurant.

After lunch, we decided to go separate ways – my friend to the nearby Marché des Enfants Rouges, while I resolved to spend the afternoon in the Picasso Museum. I was warned upfront that this was not the best day to visit the museum as several rooms were closed for an upcoming exhibition. I paid the reduced fee and stepped inside.

The museum seemed a little disorganized, with scant paintings and sculptures here and there.

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But I was able to catch some portraits of Dora Maar

The distinguished Bathers with Crab

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Some without a name tag

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Others – studies and sketchies

Cubism

The Goat that’s made of Wicker-basket, ceramic pots, palm leaf, metal, wood, cardboard, and plaster.

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A Little Girl Skipping that’s also made with a basket, a cake mould and a pair of women’s shoes.

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Picasso’s collection of paintings by Joan Miró, including the Spanish artist’s self-portrait

And Henri Matisse.

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I left the museum right before closing time. It was an afternoon well-spent.

With our departure looming in the horizon, we weren’t in the mood for a sumptuous meal. So we simply walked to the little “tapas” bar we passed everyday on our way to Boulevard Saint-Germain, and ordered off the cards hanging from the ceiling.

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The food was simple and delicious!

Only seeing all the locals on their nights out made me feel a tad melancholy. I really wished we could stay.

The day of our departure turned out to be beautiful. Before heading to the airport, my friend went to grab her morning coffee at the McDonald’s right across the street from the Luxembourg Gardens.

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I told her that I would wait for her in the garden, for which she replied that she was afraid that I might just disappear.

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She had a point…I thought…staring at the mouthwatering pastry displays at Dalloyau

Getting mini-quiche to eat in flight and their prestigious Opéra cake to take back home.

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This cake was invented in 1955 by Cyriaque Gavillon from Dalloyau. He wanted to create a new cake shape with visible layers and for which only one bite would give the whole cake’s taste. It is his spouse, Andrée Gavillon, that named it “Opéra” in tribute to the auditorium of the Palais Garnier. The Opera is a rectangular cake composed of three thin layers of almond sponge cake soaked in coffee syrup, alternating between layers of coffee butter cream and chocolate glaze topped with ganache.

Later at the Charles de Gaulle, our terminal was shutdown due to an unattended luggage. Among anxious passengers eager to get on their planes, I remained calm and casually mentioned that, if anything we could always turn around and go back to Paris. Oh well, the issue did get resolved quickly and soon we were on our way back to the States.

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Goodbye Paris, I love you!

This concludes our spring trip to France. All reports from this trip can be found here.

Coming up next in the Travel section: A Walk in the Swiss Alps.

35 thoughts on “Paris, I Hate You!

  1. Aren’t the gallettes great at Breizh? I also liked Miznon, an Israeli spot in Marais. I’m glad I did not know about the Opera cake when I was there. So tempting and so delicious, I’m sure!

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    1. I remember seeing Miznon while we were doing our falafel tastings. Will have to try it next time around. The Opera cake was so good. We happened upon the same store in Osaka, but the opera cake did not taste as good as the one we had in Paris. Oh well, More the reason to go back 🙂

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  2. Great ending ~ yes, Paris is hard not to love. Charles de Gaulle airport, on the other hand, may be the worst airport I’ve ever experienced, multiple times 🙂 Seems like you had a perfect Paris experience ~ and some nice weather even with some grey ones. Cheers and safe travels.

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  3. Hehe, this title certainly made me look and I was not sorry. The coat and the desserts made me sigh the most. Oh, and the church windows even without the sun! I haven’t been there in ages but will glad follow your trip in reverse. 🙂 And I’m sure you’ll be back.

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  4. I’m heading to Paris very soon, and am interested in checking out Angelina…a shame that its food didn’t live up to your expectations (now, I’m wondering whether I’ll like it!). Same goes for the Picasso Museum…I’ve eaten at Breizh Café, and I enjoyed the galettes– it’s been a long time since I’ve last been, so maybe I’ll return! Hope to read more travel posts from you soon. 🙂

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  5. Beautiful glasswork, and that food looks mighty tasty. I’ve always thought the sign of a good trip is that sense of melancholy you get when it’s ending and you have to go back to the routine.

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  6. Is it silly that I’m a bit weepy, reading about your last day in Paris? (It’s SO HARD to leave, isn’t it?) But I’m immensely grateful for all of the wonderful photos and memories you shared here; it was a pleasure to join you, if only from my armchair. Welcome home, et à bientôt, j’espère !

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    1. Dear Heide, Thanks for stopping by. Yes it was so hard to leave, but leave we must sometimes 😦 Seeing your pictures and reading your stories about Paris helped, I guess sharing the memories is a good way to get over it? Love your blog!

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      1. Sharing our memories is indeed a great way to get over our Paris homesickness — and to discover new places for next time too! Those are just two of the reasons I’ve been spending a lot of time reading your past posts: Between your wonderful narrative and your lovely photos, I feel transported back there again. I’m so glad we “met”! 🙂

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