Back to Paris

In Paris we stayed at Hôtel Saint Paul Rive Gauche in the 6th Arrondissement, a few blocks from the Luxembourg Gardens. On the day of our arrival, after storing away our luggage, we went for a walk.

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It was one of those early spring days in Paris, with overcast sky and chilly temperature.

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Without the crowds, our stroll in the garden was rather relaxing and undisturbed – just us, the sculptures, the rustling sound of the wind-swept trees

A few ducks quacking in front of the Medici Fountain

And locals performing their daily routine.

Located not far from Jardin du Luxembourg, on one of the side streets, is Jean-Paul Hévin chocolate shop. Its sweet aroma and beautiful display of pastries, cakes and macarons lured us in.

I had my eyes set on these bean-to-bar Tablettes – each identified by its country of origin (cocoa beans) and tasting profile (fruity, spicy or acidic). Priced at 3.90€ a piece, it was a real bargain.

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It is worth mentioning that Jean-Paul Hévin only picked up his trade in chocolate-making, after he missed the application date for school to become an electronic engineer – Interesting how “one door closes, another opens“.

One evenings, on our way to dinner, we noticed that a restaurant two doors from our hotel was illuminated with floodlight.

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Later on we found out that, this was actually the iconic Crémerie-Restaurant Polidor featured in Woody Allen’s film Midnight in Paris.

Established in 1845, Polidor was the meeting place for many literary figures such as James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway and Henry Miller. The interior of the restaurant has not been changed for over 100 years.

The lighting, as it turned out, was for shooting a music video called “Desencuentro”, a song by Puerto Rican singer Residente. starring Charlotte Le Bon and Édgar Ramírez.

It was nominated for the 2017 Latin Grammy Award for Best Short Form Music Video.

Continue down Rue Monsieur le Prince, turning right onto Rue de l’Odéon, soon you’ll reach the busy Boulevard Saint-Germain. The Odéon metro station is right around the corner.

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Between here and the Church of Saint-Sulpice – the second largest church in Paris – is an area inundated with pastry shops and high-end chocolate boutiques.

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Such as Jean-Charles Rochoux

Pierre Hermé 

Patrick Roger, La Tarte Tropézienne and Maison Georges Larnicol

known for its signature Kouignettes.

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With Debauve & Gallais, Chocolat Chapon and Jacques Genin further out, yet within walking distance.

This is the area I remembered most of Paris – getting our morning pastries at Boulangerie La Parisien

And a cup of gelato at Il Gelato del Marchese on our way back to the hotel.

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To be continued…

Note:
To make it easy to follow, I’ve pinned all the addresses from this post to the map below. Bonne journée à Paris!

28 thoughts on “Back to Paris”

  3. The music video had me in stitches!
    This is all quite tempting and I wish I was there, but, whatever you do, NEVER call them macaroons….a tiny chewy scrumptiousness made from coconut, and delish. Macarons, s’il-vous plait! Otherwise, you will be drummed out of town. Ahem. 🤣

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  4. Glad you enjoyed Paris– you picked a very good location to stay at, as your hotel is literally in the heart of the city. I’ve been to Pierre Hermé, although I’d say that I prefer the macarons at Ladurée instead…another good chocolaterie is Joséphine Vannier near Place des Vosges and another good patisserie is la Patisserie des Rêves, which has two locations, one of them I believe not too far from the Eiffel Tower. Your post makes me want to go back soon!

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    1. Thank you Rebecca! I like Ladurée too. Good thing they opened a store in Vancouver BC last year. I will add those chocolatieres you recommended to my list. Great recommendations, can’t wait to try them next time I’m in town 🙂

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